All For A Few Perfect Waves - Couverture souple

Rensin, David

Couverture souple

ISBN 10 : 0224075861 ISBN 13 : 9780224075862

Editeur : Yellow Jersey Press, 2008

Synopsis

A biography of surfer Miki 'Da Cat' Dora who dominated the Malibu waves.icon. It is the story of one man's insistence on personal freedom - and the rewards and the costs that brings. It is also a story of innocence lost, of the growth and commercialization of the California lifestyle.

A propos du livre

Présentation de l'éditeur :

There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost.

Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever more commodified, Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves - and anonymity - beyond America. He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a seven-year chase around the globe. Yet, Dora would never give up searching for the spirit of the Malibu he'd lost. Wherever he made his home - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the rebel heart of surfing and became a legend in his own time.

This brilliant biography, based on interviews with more than three hundred people who knew Dora, finally uncovers the truth about surfing's most seductive and complicated icon.

Revue de presse :

"Excellent" (Observer)

"All For a Few Perfect Waves is a wonderful book. In the mysterious, magnificent and mercurial Miki Dora, David Rensin has found the perfect subject. You may like Dora. You may hate him. But you will never tire of him through the very impressive shine of Rensin's reporting and writing" (Buzz Bissinger, author of Friday Night Lights)

"Such is [Rensin's] skill in weaving the strands together that any suspicion the subject matter might be too inconsequential to justify 475 close-packed pages is soon rejected in favour of a desire to know what happened next" (Independent)

"From the depths of hell to flying as high and as free as an eagle - and everything in between - All For a Few Perfect Waves left me laughing and crying at the same time" (Greg Noll, world-renowned big wave rider)

À propos de cette édition

• Éditeur: Yellow Jersey Press
• Date d'édition: 2008
• ISBN 10: 0224075861
• ISBN 13: 9780224075862
• Reliure: Broché
• Nombre de pages: 496