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L'Air du Désert Marocain (Tauer) ***** incense oriental
The sweet, resinous smell of amber, the smell of the classic perfume oriental, has long been weighed down with vanilla and sandalwood ballast, decorated with mulling spices, bolstered with musk, made come-hither, ready for its closeup, and we are quite used to it—but this is not amber's first life. Perfume, as has been pointed out many times, means “through smoke,” named for the fragrant materials burned to clean the air and therefore the spirit. Since the angel Metatron sees fit to deliver his messages to the world nowadays via the guitar of Carlos Santana, it only makes sense that the as yet unnamed angel of perfume chooses to speak through an unassuming Swiss chemist from Zurich with a mustache and a buttoned shirt. L'Air du Désert is talented amateur perfumer Andy Tauer's second fragrance, after the rich oriental rose of Maroc pour Elle; one hale breath of Désert's vast spaces clears the head of all the world's nonsense. There is something about the ancient smell of these resins (styrax, frankincense) that on first inhalation strikes even this suburban American Protestant with no memories of mass as entirely holy, beautiful, purifying, lit without shadow from all sides. Even without the fragrance's name to prompt me, I would still feel the same peace when smelling it that I've felt only once before, when driving across the Southwestern desert one morning: all quiet, no human habitation for miles, the upturned bowl of the heavens infinitely high above, and the sage and occasional quail clutching close and gray to the dun earth. Each solitary object stood supersaturated with itself, full to the brim, sure to spill over if subjected to the slightest nudge. Wear this fragrance and feel the cloudless sky rush far away above you. TS
Eternity for Men (Calvin Klein) * * * mandarin lavender
An interesting twist on the perennially pleasant citrus-lavender accord using the (musically speaking) flattened note of mandarin rather than straight citrus, or the corresponding sharp of lime. This is a very skillfully composed and likable fragrance, but I wish more cash had been spent on the formula. It smells good but cheap, which would be fine if the overall structure were unpretentious as in Cool Water, whereas it is distinctly aspirational. LT
Spellbound (Estée Lauder) * medicated treacle
Powerfully cloying and nauseating. Trails for miles. Frightens horses. Gets worse. TS
Tommy Girl (Tommy Hilfiger) * * * * * tea floral
No fragrance in recent memory has suffered more from being affordable than Tommy Girl. It’s as if it were deemed less desirable for being promiscuous. Despite all the historical evidence to the contrary (Brut, Canoe, Habanita, and the first J-Lo), the world is still crawling with naïve snobs who’d rather believe their wallet’s loss than their nose’s gain. Tommy Girl’s origins were explained to me by creator Calice Becker, who was brought up in a Russian household, with a samovar always on the boil and a mother with a passion for strange teas. At Becker’s instigation, the legendary chemist Roman Kaiser of Givaudan sampled the air in the Mariage Frères tea store in Paris to figure out what gave it its unique fragrance. From this a tea base was evolved, in which no one showed much interest. The idea waited several years until Elléna’s excellent but only remotely tea-like Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (Bulgari) came out in 1993. Its success made it possible for Becker to submit a tea composition for the Hilfiger brief. She won it, eleven hundred formulations later the perfume was finalized, in collaboration with a brilliant evaluator who went on to study philosophy. Tea makes excellent sense as a perfumery base, since it can be declined in dozens of ways, as flavored teas will attest: Soochong, Earl Grey, jasmine, and so on. In that respect it could serve as a modern chypre, a mannequin to be dressed at will. Tommy Girl clothed it in a torero’s trafe de luces, a fresh floral accord so exhilaratingly bright that it could be used to set the white point for all future fragrances. Remarkably, late in the project, Hilfiger’s PR firm asked Becker to give them so e reason to label the fragrance as typically American. Quest’s resident botany expert was called in, and to everyone’s surprise found that the composition fell neatly into several blocks, each apparently typical of a native American botanical. So it goes with projects whose sails are filled by the breath of angels. LT
The composition miraculously turned out to fall into accords typical of native American botanicals? Put me on record as skeptical. Tommy Girl smells great, though, and has been copied relentlessly. TS
Beauty Rush Appletini (Victoria's Secret) * Jolly Rancher
Victoria's Secret has determined that its customers need (1) cleavage and (2) to smell precisely like dime-store candy. You may discern an implicit insult to the male mind in this pair of facts. TS
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Description du livre Hardback. Etat : Good. The book has been read but remains in clean condition. All pages are intact and the cover is intact. Some minor wear to the spine. N° de réf. du vendeur GOR003163077
Description du livre Paperback. Etat : Very Good. It also features introductions to women's and men's fragrances, to trends and to history and chemistry; a glossary and many 'Top Ten' lists; and an informative section on frequently asked questions. A truly unique and useful guide, one written with a passion for its subject, and a perfect gift. SAMPLE EXTRACTS Chinatown (Bond. No. 9) ***** gourmand chypre The endearingly plucky firm of Bond No. 9 has produced its first masterpiece . like a corner of a small French grocery in summer. A treasure in a beautiful bottle. Hugo (Hugo Boss) ** unexciting lavender Dull but competent . suggestive of a day filled with strategy meetings. Gardenia (Chanel) * not gardenia .a thoroughly unpleasant, loud airport-toilet floral. The book has been read, but is in excellent condition. Pages are intact and not marred by notes or highlighting. The spine remains undamaged. N° de réf. du vendeur GOR001223788
Description du livre Hardcover. Etat : Used; Good. **SHIPPED FROM UK** We believe you will be completely satisfied with our quick and reliable service. All orders are dispatched as swiftly as possible! Buy with confidence! Greener Books. N° de réf. du vendeur mon0001785146
Description du livre Hardcover. Etat : Very good. Etat de la jaquette : very good. Cloth/dust jacket Octavo. black cloth, gilt lettering, dust jacket, 384 pp Standard shipping (no tracking or insurance) / Priority (with tracking) / Custom quote for large or heavy orders. N° de réf. du vendeur 94210
Description du livre Etat : Good. Book is in Used-Good condition. Pages and cover are clean and intact. Used items may not include supplementary materials such as CDs or access codes. May show signs of minor shelf wear and contain limited notes and highlighting. N° de réf. du vendeur 1846681022-2-4
Description du livre Hardcover. Etat : Very Good. Etat de la jaquette : Very Good. First Edition. the jacket is shelf rubbed, a few markings. soundly bound. may require extra postage outside South Africa. [SK]. Our orders are shipped using tracked courier delivery services. N° de réf. du vendeur 49yj
Description du livre Hard Cover. Etat : Fine. Etat de la jaquette : Fine. Reprint. Reprint, large 8vo, 384pp, Fine Copy in Fine DJ Size: 8vo - over 7¾" - 9¾" tall. N° de réf. du vendeur 45548
Description du livre 1st U.K. edition. 8vo. ix + 384pp. Original boards, d/w. slightly rubbed to edges. ISBN 9781846681028 US$14. N° de réf. du vendeur 169623
Description du livre HARDCOVER. Etat : VERY GOOD. 2008-09-11. Profile Books. Hardcover. VERY GOOD DJ-Very good, minor wear. 9x6. 384pp. N° de réf. du vendeur 1977559
Description du livre Hardcover. Etat : Near Fine. Etat de la jaquette : Near Fine. Jacket and illustrations by Diana Sanchez (illustrateur). 1st Edition. First UK edition, first impression with full number line. Some slight edge wear to top and bottom of jacket and spine, some faint pink smudges to bottom white stripes of front jacket (lipstick?), not price clipped (£20.00), no inscriptions, internally clean tight and square, overall a vg+ copy, looks almost unread. 384pp, illustrated. 'Perfumes: The Guide' is the culmination of Luca Turin's lifelong obsession and rare scientific flair and Sanchez's stylish and devoted blogging about every scent that she's ever loved and loathed. Together they make a fine and utterly persuasive argument for the largely unrecognised craft of perfume making. Perfume writing has certainly never been this honest, compelling or downright entertaining. Quite a scarce book. N° de réf. du vendeur 011798