This illustrated guide features information on accommodations, restaurants, festivals and seasonal events, mosques, palaces, museums, ruins, and other sights, and an essay on Moroccan history and life.
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Destination: Morocco
Westerners have been fascinated by Morocco since the middle of the 19th century. The country's vivid colors, dramatic light, and sensuous labyrinthine medinas (whitewashed medieval quarters) drew painters like Matisse and Delacroix, and its mysterious culture and perceived social freedoms -- whose allure came as much from French colonial culture as from Morocco itself -- drew a generation of anglophone writers in the first half of the 20th century, most notably the New York novelist and composer Paul Bowles, William Burroughs, Tennessee Williams, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, Edith Wharton, and Federico García Lorca. And contemporary western jazz and rock musicians have found inspiration in the sensuous Gnaoua music of the Marrakesh and Essaouira regions, rooted in West Africa.
But independent travelers who, rather than seek out the exotic, let themselves be taken in by sights, sounds, and smells that feel hospitable will be better rewarded. Morocco's tourism industry is a primary source of state income, meaning that you're unlikely to be the first foreigner ever to set foot just about anywhere you go. Seize opportunities for interaction with Moroccans. Sights may entice you to come here -- snow-peaked mountains on a sunny day, a palm-studded desert expanse, intricate Islamic architecture -- but it's impossible not to be intrigued by daily life as well.
There are many aspects of Morocco that make traveling here a pleasure: the immediacy of human warmth and generosity, the availability of transportation, geographic and cultural variety, fresh and nutritious food, and an Islam-inspired sense of charity that ensures that no one goes hungry.
Architecture and Ornament
Refined Islamic architecture graces the Imperial Cities of Fez, Meknes, Marrakesh, and Rabat. Mosques and madrasas (schools of Islamic science) dating from the Middle Ages, as well as 19th-century palaces in the Andalusian style, are decorated with colorful geometric tiles, bands of Koranic verses in marble or plaster, stalactite crevices, and carved wooden ceilings. Outside these holds of Arab influence are the mud pisé (mud-and-clay) Kasbahs in the Ouarzazate-Er-Rachidia region, where structures built with local soil range from deep pink to burgundy to shades of brown.
Dining
Like Morocco itself, Moroccan cuisine mixes tastes and ingredients in surprising ways. Dishes are based on a wide range of spices and vegetables and tend away from thick sauces. For simple street fare, you can grab a bowl of harira (chickpea, lentil, and meat soup) at a nominal cost in any souk (market). Restaurant fare varies widely. After sampling the traditional menu, order à la carte to try new dishes. The best wines are the red Medaillon, Cuvée du Président, Ksar, and the white Coquillage, all from around Meknes. Mint tea (known affectionately as Moroccan whiskey, though it's nonalcoholic) is the standard hot beverage.
Music
Music is integral to daily and ritual life in Morocco, both for enjoyment and as a form of social commentary. It emanates from homes, stores, markets, and public squares everywhere you go, and various musical genres set the mood for each region. A few high-end urbanMoroccan restaurants have superbAndalusian and melhoun dinner accompaniment. Many large hotels also arrange for folkloric "Berbère" performances that range from the outstanding to the crummy and chaotic; you're better off seeking out live music at public squares, or attending a festival, a regional moussem (pilgrimage festival), or even a rural market to see the performances locals enjoy.
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Insider info that's reliable and smart
Local experts show you all the things to see and do -- from top sights to off-the-beaten-path adventures, from sports to shopping, from nightlife to recommended walks.
Hotels and restaurants in all price categories
From B&Bs to luxury hotels, from casual eateries to elegant restaurants, we list hundreds of detailed reviews that show what is distinctive about each place.
Practical info that's completely up-to-date
Useful maps and background information; Key contacts; How to get there and get around; When to go; What to pack; Local do's and taboos; Costs, hours, and tips by the thousands.
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