Articles liés à Waves Over Beaches of Small Slope, Under a Dock, Under...

Waves Over Beaches of Small Slope, Under a Dock, Under an Overhanging Cliff, and Past Plane Barriers (Classic Reprint) - Couverture souple

Stoker, J. J.

 
9781333597207: Waves Over Beaches of Small Slope, Under a Dock, Under an Overhanging Cliff, and Past Plane Barriers (Classic Reprint)

Synopsis

Understanding how small waves behave on sloping shores and barriers

Learn the math behind how gentle waves travel, reflect, and interact with coastlines.

This edition presents the general linear theory of surface waves with small amplitudes. It shows how a two-dimensional, irrotational fluid model leads to the Laplace equation for the velocity potential, and it explains the boundary conditions at the free surface and seabed. The discussion moves from infinite depth to finite-depth settings and introduces concepts like progressing and standing waves, with clear links between wave height, speed, and wavelength.

Readers will see how complex analysis and normalization help describe wave motion near beaches, slopes, and barriers. The material blends classic results with practical considerations that arise in coastal contexts.

  • Core equations and boundary conditions for small-amplitude waves
  • How depth and slope affect wave speed and behavior
  • Progressing waves, standing waves, and the role of dispersion
  • Connections between theory and coastal features like beaches and barriers

Ideal for readers of applied mathematics, physics, and coastal engineering who want a rigorous, accessible treatment of linear wave theory.

Les informations fournies dans la section « Synopsis » peuvent faire référence à une autre édition de ce titre.