Understanding how small waves behave on sloping shores and barriers
Learn the math behind how gentle waves travel, reflect, and interact with coastlines.
This edition presents the general linear theory of surface waves with small amplitudes. It shows how a two-dimensional, irrotational fluid model leads to the Laplace equation for the velocity potential, and it explains the boundary conditions at the free surface and seabed. The discussion moves from infinite depth to finite-depth settings and introduces concepts like progressing and standing waves, with clear links between wave height, speed, and wavelength.
Readers will see how complex analysis and normalization help describe wave motion near beaches, slopes, and barriers. The material blends classic results with practical considerations that arise in coastal contexts.
Ideal for readers of applied mathematics, physics, and coastal engineering who want a rigorous, accessible treatment of linear wave theory.
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Vendeur : Forgotten Books, London, Royaume-Uni
Paperback. Etat : New. Print on Demand. This book explores the mathematical theory behind surface gravity waves, focusing on the interactions between waves and structures in water. The author delves into the behavior of waves over sloping beaches and under various obstacles, providing a comprehensive understanding of wave dynamics in these scenarios. The theories and solutions presented in the book have practical applications in coastal engineering, oceanography, and the design of structures near bodies of water. By examining the interplay between waves and structures, this book contributes to the ongoing scientific exploration of wave phenomena and their impact on the environment. This book is a reproduction of an important historical work, digitally reconstructed using state-of-the-art technology to preserve the original format. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in the book. print-on-demand item. N° de réf. du vendeur 9781333597207_0
Quantité disponible : Plus de 20 disponibles
Vendeur : PBShop.store US, Wood Dale, IL, Etats-Unis
PAP. Etat : New. New Book. Shipped from UK. Established seller since 2000. N° de réf. du vendeur LW-9781333597207
Quantité disponible : 15 disponible(s)
Vendeur : PBShop.store UK, Fairford, GLOS, Royaume-Uni
PAP. Etat : New. New Book. Shipped from UK. Established seller since 2000. N° de réf. du vendeur LW-9781333597207
Quantité disponible : 15 disponible(s)