That Oceanic Feeling: A Surfer's View of the World - Couverture souple

Capp, Fiona

Couverture souple

ISBN 10 : 1845130081 ISBN 13 : 9781845130084

Editeur : Aurum, 2004

Synopsis

As a young woman on Australia's southern coast, Fiona Capp had always loved to go surfing - a most supreme pleasure', in Captain Cook's early words. But then fifteen years went by, she had a child, and suddenly, approaching forty, she realised if she didn't do it again soon she probably never would...That Oceanic Feeling is part travelogue, part inner autobiography, part cultural exploration - about why we surf, and what surfing does to us. Fiona Capp traces the sport's origins back to the earliest Pacific peoples, and establishes when Enlightenment Europe first discovered its exhilarating appeal. She tells of her own re-acquaintance with the surf and her quest to become good enough to take on the fabled and terrifying wave Corsair. And in exploring surfing landscapes from Victoria, Australia to Hawaii, France and Cornwall, she asks why we feel compelled to push ourselves out of our safety zones and venture into unknown waters. That Oceanic Feeling is a beautifully written, original sports book to rival Haunts of the Black Masseur, about a sport hitherto sorely lacking profound literary exploration.

A propos du livre

À propos de l'auteur

Fiona Capp is the author of two novels, Last of the Sane Days and Night Surfing. She lives in Melbourne, Australia.

Détails de l'édition

• Éditeur: Aurum
• Date d'édition: 2004
• Langue: anglais
• ISBN 10: 1845130081
• ISBN 13: 9781845130084
• Reliure: Broché
• Nombre de pages: 288
• Coordonnées du fabricant: non disponible
• Personne responsable: non disponible