Surf Is Where You Find It: The Wisdom of Waves; Any Time, Anywhere, Any Way - Couverture souple

Lopez, Gerry

Couverture souple

ISBN 10 : 1938340949 ISBN 13 : 9781938340949

Editeur : Patagonia Books, 2022

Synopsis

The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward."

Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water.

From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today.

Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way.

Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.

A propos du livre

À propos des auteurs

There are few images as iconic as Gerry calmly slotted on a perfect, eight-foot day at Pipeline. After redefining the art of tube riding on the North Shore of O'ahu, his focus turned to Indonesia, where he pioneered legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land. Now based in Oregon, he surfs, writes, shapes, and shreds powder days near his home in Bend.

Rob Machado is not just one of the world's greatest surfers, he's also one of the sport's most recognizable characters -- a living icon who continues to expand the definition of what professional surfing is all about. Known for his zen-like flow both on land and in the water, Machado was consistently seeded at the top of the rankings as a competitor on the ASP World Tour. With 12 career WCT victories, Machado was ranked among the top ten surfers for eleven straight years and was inducted into the Surfer's Hall of Fame in 2000 and re-inducted in 2006 and SIMA Waterman of the Year in 2011.

Steve Pezman is a surfer, editor and publisher. He was the editor of Surfer from 1971 to 1991, when he and his wife, Debbee Pezman, founded The Surfer's Journal. He lives in San Clemente, CA.

Détails de l'édition

• Éditeur: Patagonia Books
• Date d'édition: 2022
• Langue: anglais
• ISBN 10: 1938340949
• ISBN 13: 9781938340949
• Reliure: Broché
• Numéro d'édition: 3
• Nombre de pages: 416
• Coordonnées du fabricant: PATAGONIA; eu.patagonia.com; ; Jollemanhof 11; Amsterdam; 1019 GW; Pays-Bas