Nova Scotia: With Coverage of Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador (Gold Guides)

This guide to Canada's Atlantic provinces has been expanded to include rewritten chapters on Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Labrador, and a new section - "Excursions from Maine". It also contains comprehensive coverage of outdoor pursuits.

Pleasures and Pastimes

Dining
Though there are few really distinct national dishes here, the strong ethnic presence in Canada makes it difficult not to have a good meal. This is especially true in the larger cities, where Greek, Italian, Chinese, Indian, and other immigrants operate restaurants. In addition, each province is well known for various specialties. Seafood usually heads the menu at restaurants in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland. In addition, fiddleheads, curled young fern fronds picked in the spring, often accompany dishes in these maritime provinces.

The Great Outdoors
Most Canadians live in towns and cities within 200 miles of the American border, but the country does have a splendid backyard to play in. A
network of 34 national parks, from Kluane in Yukon to Cape Berton Highlands in Nova Scotia, is backed by dozens of provincial and regional parks. All this wilderness provides abundant opportunities for bicycling, canoeing, hiking, boating, horseback riding, mountain climbing, skiing,  white-water sports, and fishing. The Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic provinces are ideal for whale-watching. The chapters in this book and provincial tourism authorities have information on all these activities.

BIKING: Eastern Canada offers some of the best bicycling in the country, from the flats of Prince Edward Island to the varied terrain of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Write to the provincial tourist boards for their roadmaps (which are more detailed than the maps available at
gas stations) and information on local cycling associations.

BOATING: With the Atlantic coastline, major rivers, and smaller lakes, boating is extremely popular throughout Eastern Canada. Boat
rentals are widely available and provincial tourism departments can provide lists of sources.

CAMPING: Canada's 2,000-plus campgrounds range from simple roadside turnoffs with sweeping mountain vistas to fully equipped
facilities with groomed sites, trailer hookups, recreational facilities, and vacation-village atmosphere. Many of the best sites are in Canada's
national and provincial parks, with nominal overnight fees. Commercial campgrounds offer more amenities, such as electrical and water hookups,
showers, and even game rooms and grocery stores. They cost more and are -- some think -- antithetical to the point of camping: getting a little
closer to nature. Contact tourist offices for listings.

CANOEING AND KAYAKING: Your degree of expertise and experience will dictate where you canoe. Beginners can try waterways in more
settled areas; pros head north to the streams and rivers that flow into the Arctic Ocean. Provincial tourist offices can be of assistance, especially in locating an outfitter to suit your needs.

FISHING: Anglers can find their catch in virtually any region of the country, though restrictions, seasons, license requirements, and
catch limits vary from province to province. In addition, a special fishing permit is required to fish in all national parks; it can be obtained
at any national park site, for a nominal fee. Nova Scotia has some of the most stringent freshwater restrictions in Canada, but the
availability of Atlantic salmon, speckled trout, and striped bass makes the effort worthwhile. Salmon, trout, and black bass are abundant in the
waters of New Brunswick, and although many salmon pools in the streams and rivers are leased to private freeholders, either individuals or
clubs, fly fishing is still readily available for visitors. The waters surrounding Prince Edward Island have some of the best deep-sea
tuna fishing. Newfoundland offers cod, mackerel, salmon, and sea trout in the Atlantic and speckled trout and rainbow trout in its fresh waters.

HIKING: Miles and miles of trails weave through all of Canada's national and provincial parks. Write to the individual provincial tourist offices.

NATIONAL PARKS: The country's first national park was established in 1885, and since then the national park system has grown to
encompass 34 national parks and 112 national historic sites. Because of Canada's eagerness to preserve its environment, new lands are continually being added to this network. Almost every park offers camping -- either primitive camping or campsites with various facilities that
can accommodate recreational vehicles. Hiking trails weave their way through each of the parks. One of the most popular preserves is Fundy
National Park in New Brunswick.

SCUBA DIVING: More than 3,000 shipwrecks lie off the coast of Nova Scotia, making it particularly attractive to divers. The provincial Department of Tourism can provide details on the location of wrecks and where to buy or rent equipment.

WHALE-WATCHING: The Atlantic waters around Newfoundland offer excellent whale-watching, and giant humpback, right whales, finback,
and minke whales can be seen in the Bay of Fundy. Boat trips are available from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

WINTER SPORTS: If asked, most Canadians would probably claim they hate winter. Whining about the cold is a national pastime. But the
fact is, the country revels in winter. Every town and village has at least a few skating rinks, and everyone has a favorite toboggan hill. In
January and February, fishermen erect villages of huts on frozen rivers and lakes, and dogteams yap through the forest as soon as the snow is
deep enough.